The drape, the width, raglan sleeves and armholes with an anatomically pleasing tailored cut. The Belvest collection presented at the 91st edition of Pitti Uomo is a coherent assemblage of technical know-how and international inspiration, a perfect balance between British lines and Italian subtlety, all brought together under the brand’s aristocratic signature looks which hark back to yesteryear. In its over fifty-year history in the trade, the Veneto-based company has been investing in human resources and in-depth research into fabrics, which, for the 17/18 season, ranges from luxurious Scottish cashmere to Italian finery, taking in the softest double-print Japanese flannels, with the overall effect of creating fascinating visual movements on the lapel facing of the coats.
The jackets in the Belvest collection can be reduced to five models - from the CEO to Natural Soft, through Jacketinthebox, G50 and the Jersey Blazer – and they are characterized by their cascading climax in terms of formality of the piece. The CEO, their best-seller, has light padding in the shoulders and armholes, it is interfaced and was designed with formal and business meetings in mind; Natural Soft has a slightly more informal shoulder, and comes in undyed natural shades, which guarantees a less structured look than its darker counterparts – perfect for a jacket and trouser combination or informal occasions; the Jackinthebox model – again with full canvas – presents a floating canvas, an ultra-light interfacing attached to the fabric with loose stitches. The shoulders and armholes are natural, no padding whatsoever, and the garment is so soft that –the name is a giveaway! – it can easily be put back into its box. The G50 and the Jersey Blazer, on the other hand, are pure fabric and stitching, no lining, no shoulder padding, a kind of shirt-cum-jacket, with a deep sloping cran which calls to mind the tailoring of a bygone era; there is also a sporty version, with a hood that extends down from the collar, sewn onto the lapels.
As a tailoring enthusiast, I might have considered making the collars a little wider, around 9cm for the single-breasted model, rather than 7cm, and at least 11cm on the double-breasted jacket, but this is just a matter of personal taste which is, in truth, fully satisfied by the Capsule Collection, an intentionally more updated feel, in which the collars go up to 11cm on the single-breast; this is however, detrimental to the proportions, which appear slimmed down.
Overall, the fit is remarkable thanks to the oblique armholes, which are wider at the rear than at the front, and to the front quarters in the cavallerizza style, as Neapolitan tailors would no doubt say. The great attention to detail can even be spotted by the untrained eye: the appliqué pockets, the breast pockets and the stitching on the shoulder are in complete harmony with the patterns on the fabric, never causing them to clash in that brutal manner that is found in some tailoring.
And few words could describe the coat collection, although “astonishing” and “miraculous” do spring to mind: “Tight, short coats are cheap”, states the Belvest designer, as he shows me a single-breasted Mackintosh style coat - generous in cut, long and with a drape that I would not hesitate to define as noble (see photo). Amongst my personal favourites is a double-breasted overcoat with a raglan sleeve and “turn-up” stitching in a crushed bouclé fabric so soft to the touch to seem cashmere, oblique cut pockets and six buttons in a row, rather than in a tapered line. Below are some photos of the garments worn.
Bespoke hugs,
Fabio
