This week in Geneva, I had the privilege of previewing Montblanc’s latest offerings at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie. This year, the Maison celebrated its 110th anniversary with an event inspired by the great ocean crossings of yesteryear, “when people left the sanctuary of their homeland in search of inspiration in the new and uncertain world”, as Zaim Kamal, the brand’s Creative Director in Hamburg puts it. The obvious stress on innovation is well-rooted in the tradition and craftsmanship of the manufacturers, as witnessed by the 4810 collection, which takes its name from the altitude of Mont Blanc and alludes to how the company constantly strives for excellence, aiming for the very peak of perfection. The crowning glory of the collection is the Montblanc 4810 ExoTourbillon Slim which has a patented mechanism and is wholly manufactured at the Villeret plant, once the home of noted watchmakers Minerva, and today wholly owned by the group. The prefix of the name of this time-piece “exo” derives from ancient Greek, meaning “external”, and refers to the fact that the balance wheel is located outside the tourbillion cage, bestowing a sensation of weightlessness to the mechanism, as the balance wheel “floats” above the cage, allowing for improved oscillation. The 42 mm case features a fan-shaped embellishment on the upper side of the dial, as well as gold-plated Roman numerals. It requires four working days to create, and its retail price is €35 thousand euros, highly competitive if you consider the price range of time-pieces with similar complications.
My visit continues in the accessories department, produced exclusively in the Tuscany region. The head of leather goods is from Tuscany and explains that the elasticity of leather depends on the age of the animal: a young calf provides a softer, more supple hide, but it will obviously be smaller compared to the hide from an older animal. “This is why it is hard to find outsized bags made of very supple leather, something that is more commonly found in shoes,” he explains. The pattern also depends on the hide used, with three variables: temperature, pressure and thickness of the leather. Elevated temperatures, like excessive pressure, can burn or ruin the hide, while the perfect temperature opens the pores and makes it easier to craft. And the craftsmen explain to me that palmellatura (boarded calfskin) is not necessarily better than bottalatura (tumbled calfskin), because it depends how many times the procedure is repeated: “Three bottalature are better than one palmellatura.” And before partaking in a private dinner organized by the Maison with guests including Charlotte Casiraghi and Hugh Jackman, I had the boundless good fortune to photograph the Twincounter Date from the latest Heritage Chronométrie collection, with complications like the date on the right-hand subsidiary dial and seconds on the left-hand subsidiary dial, automatic winding mechanism and an alligator leather strap; the overall impression was of a slender, versatile and elegant time-piece. See photos below.
Bespoke hugs,
Fabio
Credits:
Montblanc Twincounter Date
Edesim Casentino Coat & Jacket
Dalcuore flannel trousers
Santoni shoes
