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  • Edesim Lambswool Suit & Cashmere Overcoat A detailed review

    Edesim Lambswool Suit & Cashmere Overcoat

    A detailed review

    The inspiration behind this last masterpiece by Edesim comes from the photo below, picturing a gentleman in his three-piece suit with vest and slanted pockets. In my case, the fabric is a lambswool from the British mill Schofield & Smith (the same mill of many of the suits worn by the renonwned Pierce Brosnan as 007). It weigths nearly 400 grams per metre and has a very soft finishing in comparison to the rougher shetland wool.

    The jacket, as every suit by Edesim, is a perfect mix of styles: the natural shoulder without padding is a tribute to the Neapolitan origins of Edesim, whereas the sleeve head with rollino is more French, as well as the side vents cut higher than 30 centimetres. The fuller sleeve “leans” on the fronts, the collar is high and shaped, the buttonhole is long but with no “virgola” (silk thread inside) nor drop and the boat-shaped breast pocket is markedly Neapolitan. The vest too - that I will have shortened a tad - has notch lapels and the trousers are a true masterpiece, falling perfectly on the shoes, with a flawless central crease and reverse double pleats that do not open up.

    The double-breasted overcoat is made from a pure cashmere by Harrisons of Edinburgh, with four covered buttons, patch pocket with flaps, back pleat and a two-button “martingala”. To complete the look there is a Donegal unlined tie, a pin collar shirt, cordovan derby and TBD Eyewear glasses.    

     

    Bespoke hugs,
    Fabio

     

    Edesim Lambswool Suit & Cashmere Overcoat A detailed review
    The inspiration (credits unknown)
    Edesim Lambswool Suit & Cashmere Overcoat A detailed review
    Edesim Lambswool Suit & Cashmere Overcoat A detailed review
    A peculiar breast pocket (concept by Edesim)
    Edesim Lambswool Suit & Cashmere Overcoat A detailed review
    Hand-stitched buttonhole
    Edesim Lambswool Suit & Cashmere Overcoat A detailed review
    A fancy back
    Edesim Lambswool Suit & Cashmere Overcoat A detailed review
    Patch pocket with flap
    Edesim Lambswool Suit & Cashmere Overcoat A detailed review
    Edesim Lambswool Suit & Cashmere Overcoat A detailed review
    Edesim Lambswool Suit & Cashmere Overcoat A detailed review
    A clean back despite the absence of any padding
    Edesim Lambswool Suit & Cashmere Overcoat A detailed review
    When the jacket is open, the first dart is perfectly aligned to the trouser's central crease
    Edesim Lambswool Suit & Cashmere Overcoat A detailed review
    Edesim Lambswool Suit & Cashmere Overcoat A detailed review
    The pin collar
    Edesim Lambswool Suit & Cashmere Overcoat A detailed review
    Donegal tie
    Edesim Lambswool Suit & Cashmere Overcoat A detailed review
    Occhiali da sole 'Pleat' by TBD Eyewear
    Edesim Lambswool Suit & Cashmere Overcoat A detailed review
    Edesim Lambswool Suit & Cashmere Overcoat A detailed review
    Edesim Lambswool Suit & Cashmere Overcoat A detailed review
    Edesim Lambswool Suit & Cashmere Overcoat A detailed review
    Forward pleats and coin pocket
    Edesim Lambswool Suit & Cashmere Overcoat A detailed review
    The plumb of the trousers on the shoes
    Edesim Lambswool Suit & Cashmere Overcoat A detailed review
    Edesim Lambswool Suit & Cashmere Overcoat A detailed review
    Edesim Lambswool Suit & Cashmere Overcoat A detailed review
    Cordovan derby shoes
    Edesim Lambswool Suit & Cashmere Overcoat A detailed review
    Edesim Lambswool Suit & Cashmere Overcoat A detailed review
    Edesim Lambswool Suit & Cashmere Overcoat A detailed review

    Edesim Napoli

    Cupa Principe, 102
    80144 Napoli Italy

    Ph. credits: Eleonora Proietti

    Edesim concave lapel line - Part II
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