The idea for this suit came to me in a flash of inspiration while watching a classic of Italian cinema, “The Leopard”. Glued to Luchino Visconti’s masterpiece, I was almost struck dumb by a scene showing a close-up of the cran of a jacket worn by the French actor Alain Delon. The cran was particularly deep, an uncommon sight on today’s jackets (see photo below). I enthused about my finding to Eduardo De Simone, and a project to recreate it became a reality in a few short days.
The fabric selected was a brown E. Thomas creation, which tailor’s dub “the skin of the devil”, due to the trials and tribulations encountered when working this particular cloth in comparison to wool. We deliberately experimented with different lines on this jacket, which did not stop at the Visconti inspiration: we overindulged in a greater cutaway in the front, more in vogue once upon a time, to facilitate horse riding. To compensate for the wider frontal opening, we opted for high-waisted trousers, with double pleats and side buckles. The shoulder has a natural drop and the armhole has a thin sleeve head layer. On the merely visual/aesthetic side of things, I would perhaps have avoided cutting the frontal dart right to the very bottom, as, in my humble opinion, it ends too harshly on the curve.
Bespoke hugs,
Fabio
Credits:
Edesim Suit
The Bespoke Dudes Eyewear Sunglasses
Giusto Bespoke Tie
Velasca Milano Tassel Loafers
Serà Fine Silk Pocket Square
