Alfonso Leonardi, proprietor of the tailor’s of the same name, after years with Kiton and Borrelli, some years ago has taken the plunge and gone solo, opening up an atelier in Secondigliano in the northern outskirts of Naples. The term “family-run business” could have been invented for it: indeed, every single member of his family has a hand in operations, alongside a handful of others, making a total of ten members of staff. His signature item is the 3-roll-2 jacket, with the “cran” 5cm from the shoulder, the first buttonhole stitched inside out, a “closed” armhole and the sleeve slightly wider than the sleeve head, guaranteeing that wavy Neapolitan fold, without rollino. The second frontal dart extends to the bottom hem and the barchetta pocket is of 3.5cm. The sleeve is sewn on upwards, giving priority to the frontal part rather than the rear.
The fabric chosen for my suit is a 50-50 mohair/wool blend by Ariston. From a structural point of view, the suit is flawless: the jacket has an outstanding neckline, the deep reverse pleats of the trousers plunge down from the waistband (so no tacks) without flaring out excessively. The buttonholes are typically Neapolitan, and call to mind those found on shirts. The front buttoning, however, is too low; indeed, the central button is at 47.5cm from the shoulder, although I must shamefully admit that I’m the guilty party for having asked for it to be placed low down. 46cm would have sat better. The result is a buttoning so low (the front is 75cm long) that the jacket seems incomplete, as though it isn’t fully developed at the bottom. To conclude, the drop of the trousers is perfect when worn with invisible socks, but the central crease puckers when donning knee-length socks, as the fabric rubs against my calves. A wider “squarciatura” (the rear panel of the trouser pattern) would have resolved this issue.
Bespoke hugs,
Fabio
Credits:
- TBD Eyewear Sunglasses
- Ingram shirt
- Serà Fine Silk Pocket Square
- Tudor watch
- Eternal Shoes blutchers
